It is my impeccable and esteemed opinion that, by and large, this accounts for the differences people hear when tube rolling. So effectively, virtually nobody is checking the bias when the replace tubes on those -because even fewer people are willing to solder/desolder resistors on those paper thin PCBs. and Blues Jr are fixed bias, but don't have bias adjustment pots (maybe the vIII ones do). If it sounds good and isn't red-plating, one could argue that there's little benefit to tweaking the bias points.Ī cathode biased amp like the 5E3 Deluxe doesn't have a bias adjustment pot, so adjusting the bias requires replacing a resistor. Regardless of whether the amp is fixed or cathode biased. I think the vast majority of tube amp owners simply plug and play. In fact, many players will find they prefer different bias than one another, due to their ear, and play style. Now, that doesn't mean we should get careless, but these aren't Hi Fi amps, we dont need the bias within a specific spot, within a 1% tolerance to have an amp that sounds and functions properly. I usually dont bias my power tubes at max safe dissipation, so I usually dont need to worry about new tubes red plating, or overtaxing the transformer.
There's no hard fast rule, as long as you're in a safe operating range. The power tubes have a pretty wide range of safe operating bias range, and certain (brand) tubes sound better/worse at certain bias levels running hotter/colder. It's always good to check readings, but I have swapped power tubes numerous times on Fixed adjustable bias, without tuning. IME, that's also usually the case with fixed bias amps. Cathode biasing requires no tuning unless components have drifted. Certain tubes may pull more/less current, which is why you should check the bias, it does not always require tuning, IMO. It's actually the tubes that vary most, now. Most modern amps have tighter tolerance components that dont drift much.
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